20 hero skincare ingredients explained

The sheer number of options that are available in skincare today can be dizzying.

There always seems to be the next "It" ingredient that claims to solve your skin woes, or new and groundbreaking beauty treatments and formulations to try.

So, what really works? Here's a one-stop guide detailing the best skincare ingredients to look out for, no matter your skin type.

Skin concern: Fine lines and wrinkles

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Keep fine lines and wrinkles at bay by looking for ingredients that help to speed up skin cell turnover and collagen production.

Try: Peptides, buy: Ultra Glow Serum, $30, Sephora Collection 

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as the building blocks for important proteins that are needed for healthy skin.

When applied, peptides help to send different signals to your skin cells so that they can function more effectively.

In particular, peptides are able to stimulate your cells to produce more collagen and elastin for a firmer, bouncier complexion.

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Try: Retinol, buy: Retinol Cica Repair Ampoule, $51, Innisfree 

A derivative of vitamin A, retinol is a holy grail ingredient when it comes to anti-ageing.

Research has shown that retinol is able to penetrate deep into skin to slow down collagen degeneration and promote skin cell turnover. Retinol also acts as a mild exfoliator to improve skin's overall texture.

A word of caution: It can cause irritation and flaking if your skin is not used to it.

When using retinol for the first time, start by applying it just once a week at night. If your skin is able to tolerate it well, you can slowly build that up to every alternate night or more.

Retinol also causes skin to be extra photosensitive, so make sure you use broad-spectrum SPF daily.

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Try: Alpha-hydroxy Acids, buy: Lumiclar Mandelic Renewal Serum, $59.90, Derma Lab 

Also known as AHAs, alpha-hydroxy acids are a group of acids commonly derived from plants. Unlike BHAs, AHAs are water-soluble and are often used to retexture the skin's surface – think peels and exfoliators.

One of the most popular AHAs is glycolic acid, which is typically derived from sugar canes.

Glycolic acid is a favourite anti-ageing ingredient, thanks to its small molecular size that allows it to penetrate into the deeper layers of skin to work its magic.

As such, it can stimulate collagen production to help firm skin and keep fine lines at bay.

However, this also means that glycolic acid is more likely to cause irritation than other AHAs.

Prefer something gentler? Try lactic acid instead. It is commonly derived from soured milk, and works as a light exfoliator to speed up skin cell turnover for a brighter, healthier complexion.

Lactic acid works well for those with sensitive skin, but as with all acids, it should be introduced into your skincare regime incrementally to avoid causing irritation.

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Skin concern: Inflamed, irritable skin

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Soothe sensitive skin that's prone to redness and irritation with calming, nourishing ingredients.

Try: Centella Asiatica, buy: Cicapair Calming Serum Mask, $32, Dr Jart+ 

Commonly found in Asia, centella asiatica – often nicknamed cica by skincare brands – is an herbaceous plant that has been used in traditional and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries.

More recently, it has gained popularity as a skincare ingredient, thanks to its anti-inflammatory and moisturising properties.

But is it worth the hype?

Research suggests so, especially since the active compound in centella asiatica is madecassoside, which acts as an antioxidant to soothe and repair skin.

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Try: Calendula, buy: Calendula Herbal Extract Alcohol-free Toner, $59, Kiehl's 

Another herbaceous plant that's loved for its skin-soothing abilities is calendula. It has active compounds that calm redness and inflammation, while being extremely gentle on skin.

Calendula has also been used to promote skin repair, and heal burns and cuts, because of its natural antimicrobial properties.

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Try: Aloe vera, buy: Aloe Vera Gel, $95, Dr Barbara Sturm 

When it comes to soothing sunburns, one of the first ingredients that comes to mind is aloe vera.

It contains a host of naturally occurring enzymes, vitamins and antioxidants that can nourish and restore dry or irritated skin.

For instance, the active ingredient in aloe vera is polysaccharide, which helps to promote healing.

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Try: Honey, buy: Clear Improvement Charcoal Honey Mask, $35, Origins 

Have you heard of applying honey to a cut or wound? There's truth in this remedy as honey has antimicrobial and healing properties.

When applied topically, honey helps to reduce inflammation and calm irritated skin.

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3. Skin concern: Dehydrated skin

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If your skin is feeling dry and tight, incorporate products that feature these nourishing ingredients into your routine.

You should also look for a mix of moisturiser types: humectants to draw water into skin, emollients to repair and seal in moisture, and occlusives to prevent further moisture loss.

TRY: Ceramides, buy: The Renewal #6 The Eye Creme, $166, Rationale 

Ceramides are lipids – or fats – that are found naturally in your skin and act as the glue between your skin cells to seal in moisture.

However, we lose ceramides as we age, which affects your skin's barrier and ability to stay hydrated.

Topical ceramides thus help to rebuild and strengthen this barrier to better seal in moisture and stave off external irritants.

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Try: Hyaluronic acid, buy: Essential Flow Serum, $79, Kenzoki 

Similar to ceramides, hyaluronic acid can be found naturally in your body, and acts as a lubricant and cushion for things like your skin and joints.

As a humectant, hyaluronic acid is able to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. When applied topically, it draws and binds moisture to skin.

Another plus of hyaluronic acid: It's safe and suitable for most skin types, and rarely causes any irritation.

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Try: Plant-derived oils (rosehip oil/jojoba oil), buy: Seascreen Mineral Sunscreen Mist, $120, Chantecaille 

Rosehip and jojoba oils are chockfull of essential omega fatty acids to nourish skin.

Rosehip oil has been revered for centuries for its restorative and healing properties.

It has naturally high levels of omega-3, omega-6 and vitamin A to repair skin's barrier function and ramp up collagen production for plump, hydrated skin.

Jojoba oil's star power lies in how similar it is to your body's natural sebum. This makes it suitable for all skin types and allows it to be effectively and quickly absorbed.

Jojoba is also rich in multiple vitamins and antioxidants to prevent premature ageing, while strengthening skin.

Both rosehip and jojoba oils are emollients that soften and hydrate skin, while preventing further water loss.

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Try: Squalane and squalene, buy: Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum, $99, Biossance 

You might have come across squalane and squalene in your skincare ingredient list, but what are they and what's the difference between the two?

In a nutshell, squalene is a lipid that's naturally produced by your body to keep skin hydrated.

Unfortunately, the body's production of squalene slows down with age, and it has to be replenished topically when that happens.

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In the past, squalene used to be harvested from shark liver oil but these days, it is most commonly derived from olives or rice bran.

On its own, squalene has a shorter shelf life and isn't as stable. In order to use squalene more effectively as a skincare ingredient, it goes through a hydrogenation process to become squalane.

Squalane has a lighter consistency than squalene, and is generally recommended for those with oilier skin, while the latter works well for those with drier and more mature skin.

Whichever you pick, both squalane and squalene are antioxidant-rich and make great skin moisturisers.

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Try: Petroleum or shea butter, buy: Wonderwild Miracle Butter, $55, Drunk Elephant 

For those with severely dehydrated skin, look for occlusive ingredients such as petroleum or shea butter in your skincare.

Both have heavy consistencies that allow them to form a protective layer on skin's surface when applied – effectively preventing moisture loss and keeping external irritants out.

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Skin concern: Dull, sallow skin

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Target dullness with a two-pronged approach by first sloughing away the surface layer of dead skin, then following up with ingredients that target pigment production.

Try: Vitamin C, buy: Advanced Genifique Serum, $135, Lancôme 

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps to combat the effects of free radical damage, while inhibiting melanin production.

This means that it is effective in lightening pigmentation spots and giving your complexion a glow. Vitamin C also helps to boost cellular turnover and collagen production for plump, healthy skin.

Pro tip: Vitamin C is sensitive to light and air, and will lose effectiveness when exposed to them over time. Make sure your creams and serums come in opaque bottles, and are kept away from direct sunlight to stay effective for longer.

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Try: Tranexamic acid, buy: Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum, $72, Glow Recipe 

Historically used as a medicine to stop excessive bleeding, tranexamic acid has also recently gained a reputation in the beauty world for its brightening abilities.

In one study, participants applied a topical solution of three per cent tranexamic acid over 12 weeks, and found that it effectively reduced the appearance of melasma without causing any side effects.

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Skin concern: Oily and acne-prone skin

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To tackle oily and acne-prone skin, look out for clarifying but gentle ingredients that are effective at managing excess sebum and removing gunk.

Try: Niacinamide, buy: Always An Optimist 4-in-1 Mist, $40, Rare Beauty 

Niacinamide, aka nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. This nutrient is fast-becoming an MVP in skincare due to its many benefits.

Notably, it is a star at strengthening your skin's natural barrier, and shrinking the appearance of enlarged pores.

Research done by the European Society for Laser Dermatology has found that applying a topical product with two per cent niacinamide helped reduce sebum secretion, while another published in the International Journal of Women's Dermatology showed that a topical application of four per cent niacinamide treated acne just as effectively as an antibiotic preparation when applied twice daily for eight weeks.

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Try: Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), buy: T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum, $130, Drunk Elephant 

Beta-hydroxy acids – or BHAs – are mild acids that are often used in acne treatments.

As BHAs are oil-soluble, they are able to penetrate deep into clogged pores to decrease oil secretion and remove dead skin cells.

One of the most common BHAs is salicylic acid, well-known for its zit-zapping capabilities and ability to calm redness and inflammation.

Even though BHAs are gentle enough for daily use, those with sensitive skin might still experience dryness and irritation from them. If that occurs, start by using BHAs once every other day, and adjust the dosage according to how your skin reacts.

As with most topical acids, BHAs can also make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, so remember to limit UV exposure and generously apply broad-spectrum sunscreen during treatment.

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Try: Sulphur, buy: Zero Zit Blemish Solution, $36, Pixi 

Sulphur is a natural mineral that you might remember for its pungent smell. Beyond that, sulphur has long been hailed for its medicinal applications.

Thanks to its antibacterial and antifungal properties, it's said to inhibit the growth of bacteria that causes acne.

Additionally, it helps to slough away the top layer of dead skin to unclog pores and reduce excess sebum.

Sulphur is considered a gentle treatment and is best suited for those with mild to moderate acne.

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Try: Clay (kaolin/bentomnite), buy: Cookies N Clean Whipped Clay Detox Face Mask, $49, Fenty Skin 

Clay has been a popular clarifying skincare ingredient for thousands of years – it was even rumoured that Cleopatra incorporated clay masks into her beauty regime.

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It is well-loved for its exfoliating and mattifying properties, and the two most commonly used in skincare products are kaolin and bentonite clay.

Kaolin is considered one of the gentlest clays around as it is less absorbent (read: less drying) than other clays. For this reason, kaolin is best suited for those with sensitive or inflamed skin.

Meanwhile, bentonite is a mineral-rich clay that is renowned for its powerful oil-absorbing abilities. Its detoxifying properties makes it ideal for oily or acne-prone complexions.

That said, clay masks should only be used once or twice a week – no matter your skin type – to prevent your complexion from drying out.

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This article was first published in Her World Online.