Bar review: Nemesis, a cheeky new concept from Junior the Pocket Bar on Duxton Hill

One step into Nemesis and it’s instantly clear we’ve found a gem that doesn’t take itself too seriously. The first thing that greets us is a portrait of an Elizabethan gentleman stylishly clad in a ruff – if not for the Alien-style facehugger over his head.

More ‘vandalised’ classical art awaits further down, including one dignified nobleman with neon yellow smoke puffing from his nostrils. For a bar that shares a name with the Greek goddess who punishes hubris, it sure puts up an irreverent show.

Still, we reckon the goddess herself would forgive them, once she gets a taste of their fun tipples and pizzas . Launched in September on Duxton Hill, Nemesis is the latest concept from the folks behind Junior the Pocket Bar.

Fronted by Peter Chua and Hazel Long, the space playfully recalls a ruined temple with its Greek columns and raw concrete walls. Bartenders wearing paint-splattered vests whip up martini twists behind the bar, and the menu of Italian bar bites comes printed on neon red transparency sheets. The cheek is literal too – glance at your coaster to be mooned by a close-up of a classically nude bum.

Low-ABV is all the rage these days, and Nemesis’ NoLo Aperitivo section plays to the health-conscious crowd with zero- and low-ABV picks ($19 each) that focus on fresh fruits and herbs.

There’s Iaso, a herbaceous and fennel-forward potion with a touch of honey; opt for gin or swap out the booze with Lyre’s Aperitif Dry. For an easy-drinking start to the night, the Sunset Drip puts a spicy spin on the tequila sunrise with Shiraz Gin, spiced orange, and mint.

The house cocktails turn the ABV up a notch, along with the fun. Our eye is caught by the Hawaiian ($23), supposedly a liquid take on the pizza classic. But with its spice-rich blend of rye, pear, and pineapple topped off with creamy cheese foam and apple crumble, it winds up looking and tasting like a Christmassy Starbucks latte – and we mean that in the best possible way.

The Manly Glass ($23) arrives looking far from stereotypically masculine, with its rosy pink concoction of Citadelle Gin and sweet vermouth crowned with a strawberry. But be warned – topped off with a dash of sherry, it packs a spirit-forward, summery punch.

The martinis, needless to say, are potent too. Our silky smooth Wise Crack ($25) is a triple threat of gin, dry vermouth, and sherry, laced with herbal hints of sage and elderflower.

The bar grub here no afterthought – think Italian comfort food given an irreverent spin. For nibbles, you’ll find the likes of Olives ($12) stuffed with goat cheese, then beer-battered and deep-fried to form a juicy, briny bomb.

Another deep-fried number, the housemade Lasagna ($14) wears a crisp-charred coat of breadcrumbs, resulting in a dense brick of pure sinfulness. Balance out the oily fare with Bitter Leaf ($12) – a salad of radicchio and endives, balanced out with sweet chunks of pear and funky blue cheese.

But it’s the sourdough-style pizzas that truly steal the show. Created by Andrei Soen and Matt Kuhnemann of Park Bench Deli, these hand-kneaded pies come brushed with brown butter and baked to ten inches of glorious chewiness – neither too airy nor too dense.

The nine-strong selection is split into red and white bases, ranging from classics to funkier toppings. Many of the options are pretty veggie-forward, but the team has plans to offer meat add-ons in future.

The Pepperoni ($18), for one, is a classic generously heaped with pepperoni and parmesan shavings – if you love pizza for both crust and toppings, Nemesis has perfected the ratio in our books.

For something cheekier, the Potato ($18) piles carbs on carbs with a fluffy crust blanketed in creamy potato salad and béchamel, along with a sprinkling of crisp pickled onions. It’s carb heaven in a bar – better, we daresay, than many a pizza place could dish up.

Nemesis is located at 37 Duxton Hill, Singapore 089615, p. +65 8028 3697. Open Tues-Sat 5.30pm–10.30pm. Closed Sun & Mon.

This article was first published in City Nomads.