Booze guide: Introducing Tequila, the Mexican party spirit that deserves a second shot
PHOTO: Facebook/ladamatequila
PUBLISHED ONJuly 24, 2021 3:20 PMByJolene Hee
Just the word ‘tequila’ is enough to give us head-splitting flashbacks, but there’s more to this Mexican party shooter than salt, lime, and hangover. After all, tequila has a proud history of over 3,000 years, and the finest sippers on the market have just as much complexity as respectable fellows like Scotch or gin.
With World Tequila Day coming up on 24 July, we’re raising our glasses with a guide to this blue agave spirit – from its varied flavour profiles to where to savour craft tequilas in Singapore.
What’s Tequila, really?
Tequila traces its roots a long way back to 1000 B.C., when the ancient Aztecs fermented a milky agave drink known as pulque – so prized that they had a god dedicated to it. After the Spanish conquered the Aztec Empire in the 16th century, they adopted and distilled the delicious drink, creating the forerunner of modern-day mezcal.
It was only in the 1700s that the Cuervo family made its name by distilling blue agave, out of the many types of agave that can go into mezcal; Jose Cuervo remains the world’s best-selling tequila brand today.
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In other words, tequila is a type of mezcal made primarily from blue agave – at least 51 per cent, by law. A crop native to Mexico, blue agave is a spiky succulent that recalls a cactus, so named for the blue sheen of its leaves.
Some brands craft their tequila from 100 per cent blue agave, which generally commands a premium; others mix in additives and neutral spirits such as cane sugar.
Tequila regulations are fairly simple compared to many of its spirit counterparts. To be considered tequila, it must be made in one of five Mexican states: Primarily Jalisco (home to the small town of Tequila, the spirit’s birthplace), as well as municipalities in Michoacán, Guanajuato, Nayarit and Tamaulipas.
It must also be approved by Mexico’s Consejo Regulador del Tequila, earning it the initials CRT on the bottle label.
From blue agave to bottle
After a labour-intensive eight years or more, the blue agave reaches maturity. It can then be harvested for its heart, or piña – so named for its resemblance to a giant pineapple. To convert starchy sap into fermentable sugars, the piñas must first be steam-cooked.
In tequila’s earliest days, this meant digging a hole, filling it with agave, and burning wood atop, but things have come a long way since. Today, to fast-track the process, many distilleries now use autoclaves or stainless steel tubes, which can pressure-cook the agave in as little as seven hours while some traditional producers still slow-bake the piñas in a horno (steam-heated brick oven) for up to 28 hours.
Once cooked, the piñas are crushed with a giant stone wheel called a tahona, releasing sugar-rich juices that can be fermented and distilled into tequila. Unaged tequila, dubbed blanco, is then bottled; meanwhile, other types of tequila spend some time ageing in oak barrels.
Reposado refers to tequila aged between two months to a year, while añejo tequilas are aged for one to three years. Fairly rare tequila aged more than three years is labelled extra añejo – a category created only in 2006.
Tasting notes
Stealing a leaf from Scotch’s playbook, the tequila industry has come to think of Jalisco’s agave-growing regions in two types of terroir: Highlands and lowlands. Dubbed El Valle de Tequila, the lowlands – though they aren’t exactly low, at 1200 metres above sea level – have drier volcanic soil that yield grassier, more citrusy spirits.
Conversely, the highlands – also known as Los Altos – are home to mineral-rich clay soil and a cooler climate. This allows the agave to mature slowly and build up more sugar content, yielding sweeter tequilas packed with fruity and floral notes.
How much agave goes into the mix, of course, matters tremendously. 100per cent-agave tequila is prized as more complex and full-bodied, with plenty of natural agave flavours to unpack. Its cheaper counterpart, ‘mixto’ tequila, comes mixed with non-agave sugars and additives like caramel – much of the time, they’re best downed via shot glass.
Aficionados might draw a line between cooking methods too. Slow-baking in a horno draws out more fruity tones from the agave, while pressure-cooking in an autoclave risks caramelizing the piñas and producing a bitter finish.
One more fundamental way of classifying tequilas is by age. Blanco tequila bottles the agave at its purest and most vegetal, so you can expect a bold helping of herbal, citrus, and peppery flavours. Reposado has a golden hue from slight ageing and rounder notes of honey and caramel to match, while añejo takes on even more oak influence to ooze smooth, smoky butterscotch.
Food pairings
While it doesn’t take more than tacos and tequila to get the fun started, this party spirit has a place on any dining table too. Blanco tequila can brighten any dish which needs a spritz of citrus, from green salads to ceviche and grilled squid.
Bringing booze to your barbecue? Reposado’s peppery, honeyed notes are a match for meatier fare like smoked ribs, pulled pork, and spicy stews. Meanwhile, your chocolatey, smoky añejos and extra añejos are best saved for dessert – think rich fudge, caramel, or even truffle.
Where to drink tequila in Singapore
La Mexicana
A one-stop market for all things Mexican in Singapore, La Mexicana also boasts a well-stocked liquor aisle. Their stash of artisanal tequilas includes small-batch gems like Cavas Agave, a producer which honours traditional techniques like stone oven-baking, and La Dama Tequila, a sustainable agave grower which bottles its slow-fermented spirits in recycled glass.
They also carry a premium range from La Cofradia, Casa Cofradia Double Distilled Tequila – these delicate, 100 per cent-agave sippers come aged in bourbon oak barrels and packed in striking ceramic bottles.
La Mexicana is located at 30 Victoria St, #01-19 CHIJMES, Singapore 187996, p. +65 8707 9010. Open Sun-Wed 12pm–8pm, Thurs-Sat 12pm–9pm.
Super Loco
Super Loco is our go-to for tasty tacos and frozen margaritas, but they’re a haven for agave aficionados too.
To deepen your tequila appreciation, opt for their Degustation Flight of the Month ($22) to sip your way through the full spectrum of blanco, aged tequila, and mezcal, paired with a slew of Mexican snacks. They’ve got a curation of over 50 artisanal agave spirits to pick from too, including the likes of Don Fulano Fuerte.
Super Loco has outlets in Customs House and Robertson Quay. For more location info, see here.
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Tequila Stop
This Singapore-based distributor is dedicated to premium and limited-edition tequila as well as mezcal – so if you’re looking to splurge, there’s plenty to catch your eye. Among their impressive collection of La Cofradia expressions, you might spot the Iguanas Edition Reposado ($106.67) – a special reserve reposado in a hand-painted, iguana-shaped bottle.
They’ve amassed a wide range from respected label Casa Don Ramón as well, from their well-known Punta Diamante range to their limited-edition, Swarovski crystal-studded bottlings. The Edition Swarovski Extra Añejo ($648.88), for one, has been rested for three years in French oak to plush, berry-rich smoothness.
Shop Tequila Stop’s collections here.
This article was first published in City Nomads.