Everything you ever wanted to know about shrinking your pores

One of the biggest myths surrounding the vast world of the beauty industry is the promise that products can give you smaller, tighter pores . Let us clear things up once and for all: you cannot alter pore size with any skincare or makeup.

And the reason is simple: Pore size is determined by your genes. But before you feel helpless and throw out every product you’ve ever bought, there are still things you can control when it comes to your pores. But first, here are some facts you need to know about pores:

What are pores exactly?

For starters, pores are tiny openings on the skin surface (also known as hair follicles), through which sebum and sweat are excreted from the body. This explains why it is paramount to cleanse your skin thoroughly to keep pores clear.

However, what happens more often than not is that sebum, sweat, dirt or makeup residue are not properly removed from our pores and left to accumulate.

Factor in the dozens of times we touch our face over the course of the day means we are also constantly introducing bacteria (including P. Acnes, which causes breakouts) into them.

When a pore gets filled up with gunk and P. Acnes, it presents itself as a blackhead because the top of the oil plug gets oxidised and turns black.

And this, in turn, causes your skin texture to look rough and bumpy because congested pores appear larger than pores that are clear.

What can topical products do?

While the physical size of your pores is determined by your genes, you have total control over how your pores look. All you have to do is cleanse thoroughly, regulate sebum secretion, as well as keep pores bacteria-free.

And if you’re concerned with enlarged pores, look for products that contain exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs . AHAs (or alpha hydroxy acids) work on the skin surface by dissolving dead skin cells so they are not left to accumulate.

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On the other hand, BHAs (or beta hydroxy acids) work by penetrating into pores to eliminate sebum plugs. Be it cleansers, serums , moisturisers or masks, many pore-refining products are formulated with a blend of AHAs and BHAs for optimal efficacy.

And since these leave-on products are designed to be used daily, the concentration of acids tend to be lower for a gradual pore-purging action. Another common type of ingredient found in pore-minimising products (like masks) are clays like Kaolin and Bentonite.

Due to their porous nature, these clays are highly absorbent and soak up excess sebum from deep within pores, keeping congestion at bay. Use these purifying masks all over the face once or twice a week to give skin an overall detox.

Or you can use them locally on the T-zone or on breakouts as an SOS treatment.

Remember to commit to sunscreen

We cannot stress the importance of sunscreen enough — after all, it is the one skincare step which dermatologists agree is the most important anti-ageing precaution you can ever do for your skin. UV rays penetrate deep into skin layers to snip away at collagen fibres, resulting in a loss of elasticity.

What does that have to do with pores, you might ask? Just lift your cheeks and notice how the pores on your cheeks instantly seem smaller. This is because as your skin loses its firmness, a tiny shadow is cast at each pore, and as a result, make them appear larger.

1. Paula's Choice skin perfecting 2 per cent BHA (Salicylic Acid) liquid exfoliator, $45 (118 ml)

Formulated with two per cent BHA, this leave-on liquid exfoliator is suitable for daily use for all skin types.

Aside from gently and evenly removing built-up layers of dead skin, it also helps to increase hydration, skin smoothness and radiance in the skin. With an optimal pH range of 3.2 to 3.8, it helps to unclog pores, smoothen wrinkles and the skin surface, while increasing collagen production.

2. Dr Dennis Gross professional grade resurfacing liquid peel skincare kit, $154 (2 sets of 30 ml products)

This patented two-step liquid peel uses pharmaceutical-grade concentrates of Alpha Beta Acids, antioxidants, and bromelain to help refine the look of wrinkles and pores.

Step one dissolves the glue that holds dead skin cells to the surface while step two is a corrective treatment that helps restore healthy-looking skin and neutralise the peeling activity.

3. Tata Harper resurfacing mask, $88 (30 ml)

This natural mask uses Willow Bark, a natural BHA, pomegranate enzymes and pink clay to provide chemical exfoliation that cleans, clears, and minimises the look of pores all while sloughing off dead skin cells to smoothen the texture on your skin for a healthy radiant glow.

4. Emma Lewisham illuminating exfoliant, $82 (100 ml)

With 21 high performing ingredients, this triple-action exfoliant helps to brighten, detoxify, and add hydration back to the skin.

Combining physical and chemical exfoliants with AHA from Lactic Acid and BHA from Willow Bark, it helps to remove dead skin cells while stimulating cell regeneration for a luminous glow.

It also helps protect collagen and elastin with 17 sources and replenish lost moisture with a unique hyaluronic acid that stays active for 24 hours.

5. Herbivore botanicals blue tansy AHA + BHA resurfacing clarity mask, $76 (70 ml)

If you prefer a natural alternative, try this 100 per cent plant-based face mask.

Made with papaya and pineapple fruit enzymes (that are naturally rich in AHAs) and willow bark extract (a source of BHA), this mask eliminates dead skin cells and clears out pores to keep skin blackhead- and breakout-free.

The refreshing gel texture has a blue shade, thanks to its azulene content, which is a powerful antioxidant that counters inflammation and reduces redness.

6. Two L(i)ps screen, $70 (50 ml)

Water-based and ultra-lightweight, this SPF 50 PA+++ sunscreen is made with a prebiotic formula that uses Niacinamide to help minimise the appearance of pores while providing your skin with deep hydration and intensive protection from the sun.

This article was first published in The Singapore Women's Weekly.