This monochromatic designer switches to a rainbow palette for NDP 2024

On Aug 9, over 3,000 performers from various backgrounds, including students, community groups, and first-time participants, will come together for the Show segment of the National Day Parade (NDP).

Now, imagine if they all wore their own own clothes — what a chaotic mishmash that would be!

And that is why the Costume Designer plays such an important role in NDP to make the performers pop both on-site at the Padang and on the screens of those watching from home.

This year, the person taking up the position (again) is local fashion designer Max Tan; he was Costume Designer in NDP 2017.

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Known for his black and white designs and silhouettes, the 39-year-old began his eponymous label, MAX.TAN, in 2010 (his collections have been featured in Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, and Vogue Russia), and has been an adjunct lecturer for a decade at his alma-mater, Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts.

He tells us more about taking on the role of NDP Costume Designer for the second time, and everything fashion - from runway pieces to theatre costumes and PT shorts.

You've designed avant-garde fits for the runway, ensembles for theatre productions, and costumes for NDP — a real testament to your versatility! What's been your biggest challenge as NDP 2024 Costume Designer, and how have you overcome it?

I like silhouettes, and my brand is largely based on black and white. And because of my design philosophy, I'm not very into colour — but I'm not averse to it!

When I design clothes, I create collages, and then translate them into clothing designs. And since I'm so weak in colour, my approach with using graphic design to do collages really helps me to see the overall picture before I go into the finer details.

In what way has this role in NDP 2024 helped you level up as a creative?

This NDP experience has deepened my thinking and understanding of what culture and heritage mean to us. For example, do cultural garments need to look very, for a lack of a better word, "souvenir"? Can I wear a samfu or a cheongsam differently?

How do we engage this topic, continue this conversation, and let culture and heritage inspire and inform the way we dress?

This role has also really sharpened my understanding about camerawork. With fashion, we deal with the body and customers. With theatre shows, we work with a big stage, and we look at the big picture. But for NDP, camerawork is also thrown into the equation.

At the start, Brian (Gothong Tan, NDP 2024 Creative Director) said: "Hey, Max, could you be a little bit more sensitive to how the camera picks up certain things?" I thought that was my biggest challenge, and I've definitely grown in terms of looking at the finer details, and being more aware of how they look like on screen.

Are there any costumes that are particularly "Max Tan"?

I think everything has a "Max Tan effect". It's just facets of Max Tan that I've not shown to the public before. I'm not averse to print either. In fact, I love print, but here, it's done in a very "collage" manner. You'll see tropical prints merged with ikat motifs, and explorations of various motifs from batik prints that are very familiar to us.

In terms of silhouettes, the billowy Soka Gakkai costume was inspired by my Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

What has been most rewarding about the working relationship you've had with the Creative Team?

Brian is a dear friend and I respect his artistry a lot. He had a very clear vision, and I'm so happy to be working on this very meaningful show with him. But in design, especially on such a mammoth project, it's never just about me sketching on paper.

There's a lot of coordination involved, and I really need to thank my military counterparts and the Creative Team for providing a safe and collaborative working environment.

How does the theme of this year's NDP, "Together, As One United People", resonate with you?

Well, I've never seen myself as a single entity. As a designer, I'm equipped with certain skills, and shaped by my experiences with people I've encountered. I'm like a sponge, [absorbing from each interaction]. The more people I meet, the less alone I feel, and the more I can own my craft and offer broader perspectives. If I were to work in isolation, my viewpoint as a designer would be very myopic.

Do you have a favourite NDP memory?

That would have to be NDP 2016, when my sister's artwork was featured as part of a mass display. My sister is autistic and she's part of TOUCH Community Services.

A year after that, I was handed my first NDP job as the Costume Designer in 2017. The memory of our work being highlighted on TV for two consecutive years meant a lot to me.

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What is most Singaporean about you?

When I'm not dressed up, I literally live in my PT shorts (Physical Training shorts worn by National Servicemen), and a singlet or Dri-Fit top!

What do you enjoy doing in your free time?

I am a huge advocate for animal welfare, and I'm very involved in a few animal welfare groups. When I'm not working, I'm with my family or spending time with my dogs.

What's your best tip for the next NDP Costume Designer?

OMG, I don't dare to say this leh, because I think before me all lao jiao.

But if I were to give a tip for myself back in 2017, I would have told myself to be more open to working with people, and really dig deep into connections. Expand your perspective of looking at things, even things that you don't like. How can I make them better? There's always something to learn, even from things you hate.

Be a sponge!

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This article was first published on Wonderwall.sg.