Restaurant review: Celebrity chef Nancy Silverton's Osteria Mozza reopens at Hilton Singapore Orchard

Celebrated American Chef Nancy Silverton's Osteria Mozza returns with much fanfare to Hilton Singapore Orchard.

Showcasing its ingredient-specific, Californian Italian cuisine, her new 120-seat restaurant features classics from the original one-Michelin-starred outpost in Los Angeles as well as a number of new dishes crafted exclusively for Singapore.

Conceptualised by the award-winning EDG Design, Osteria Mozza extends the design narrative of Hilton Singapore Orchard as a modern colonial-style residence.

Much like a Tuscan farmhouse, with its open kitchen and stacks of firewood, the interiors are rich and textural – think gabion stone walls and flooring, natural brick screening, exposed fixings and caramel-coloured leather.

Encircled by glass, both indoor and outdoor plants of the space lend a natural feel that seems to transport one from the bustle of Orchard Road.

Osteria Mozza's Executive Chef Peter Birks, who left Burnt Ends to work with Silverton again after a 2016-18 stint at Marina Bay Sands, is joined by other MBS alumni, including Pastry Chef Manaal Syed (CUT by Wolfgang Puck) and General Manager Manu Gandotra (Bread Street Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay, Punjab Grill by Jiggs Kalra).

And so, we start with two Italian food symbols – Marinated Olives ($16) and Mozzarella di Puglia ($68). The aperitivo snack whets appetite with savoury olives bearing hints of garlic, citrus, and grassiness from chile d'arbol.

The classy 14-seat mozzarella bar is a treasure trove, doling out an impressive array of Italian imported cheeses and Italian cured meats. It might be a hefty price to pay, but the mozzarella with its lashings of cruschi peppers (crispy chilli) and a sidekick in fett'unta is worth trying at least once.

More bread arrives as part of Nancy's Caesar ($23), topped with hard-boiled egg, leek, and anchovy, crostini-style. The deconstructed salad sees fresh lettuce leaves on the side for umami laden bites.

It was on to the hot dishes with perfectly cooked Grilled Calamari ($22) from Osteria Mozza's Josper oven.

The excellent combination of spicy romesco with charred flavours and bouncy texture of squid lead us down the delicious road of handmade pasta.

"Little ears" of the pasta world, the Orecchiette ($32) arrives next, cradling a tasty sauce of meaty sausage with Swiss chard, leafy greens with a mildly sweet flavour when cooked.

The star of silky, cheese-filled Fonduta Ravioli ($38) though, is the 25-year old Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, lending its exceptional fragrance and flavour to the dish.

Here, we should tell you a bit about the boozy beverage selection. In addition to there's a list of classic Italian cocktails, alongside quite an impressive range of Italian wines curated by Gandotra and Osteria Mozza partner Joe Bastianich and General Manager Manu.

Of the 280 labels from across the great Italian wine producing regions, 20 are served by the glass, which goes by 175ml here.

A northern Italian red, Albino Rocca, Dolcetto D'Alba ($25) from Piemonte was recommended to go with our juicy Pork Chop Milanese ($46++). Like our wine, the protein was not complex in flavour, yet faultless and satisfying.

Then, we sample a signature, the Whole Branzino alla Piastra ($65++). Freshly grilled and served with a crispy skin, a squeeze of charred lemon and herb salad bring out delicate, sweet flavours of the sea bass. 

We're pretty stuffed by now, but it'd be a mistake to pass on desserts at Osteria Mozza. Most of the menu is centred around the joy and art of gelato, where local tropical fruits feature prominently, it's a beeline to Silverton classics.

If you have never had olive oil cake before, the Rosemary Olive Oil Cake ($20++) served with an incredible olive oil gelato is a must. It'll suit folks who prefer their desserts with a savoury touch.

On the other hand, the Butterscotch Budino ($20++) is one for the sweet tooth - make sure to dig deep for layers of custard, caramel, crème fraiche, and sea salt.

Osteria Mozza is located at Level 5, Hilton Singapore Orchard, 333 Orchard Road, Singapore 238867, p. +65 6831 6271. Open Tue-Sat 5pm-10.30pm. Closed Mon & Sun.

This article was first published in City Nomads.