Restaurant review: Kilo Kitchen relaunches as Kilo Singapore with Latin American flavours on Duxton Road

For many of Singapore’s merrymakers, the Kilo Collective is synonymous with good beats and great grub. And while the brand’s iconic concepts — Kilo Lounge and Camp Kilo — may have been shuttered, it’s clear that Kilo still holds a special place in many hearts. The proof of the pudding: when we arrived at the newly relaunched Kilo Singapore on a weekday evening, the place was nearly at full house.

Previously known as Kilo Kitchen, Kilo Singapore reopens in the same spot on Duxton Road — just in time for the collective’s big 1-0 this year. The culinary spotlight stays focused on Latin American fare and little has changed of the breezy interior: hand-sanded concrete walls, a palette of rustic stone and wood and an exposed ceiling strung with fairy lights. By the entrance, a small retail area shows off their solid collection of natural wines.

Reimagined by co-founder Joshua Adjodha and CA Concept’s Jose Alonso (also chef-owner of Spanish restaurant Kulto), the menu is dubbed a cultural trek through Latin America. A quick skim, though, reveals an eclectic mix of French, Italian and Spanish influences stirred in.

Carnivores can look forward to bigger and bolder meats, thanks to a new toy in the kitchen: a dry-age machine, acquired as the team’s birthday gift to themselves. Surf lovers aren’t left out either, with a frozen seafood display where you can pick the seafood you want on your plate.

Fortunately, we still get a slurp of their Japanese Oysters ($18++) — a half-dozen platter of oysters from Sakoshi Bay in the Hygo Prefecture. Plump and creamy, each gem packs strong briny flavours and a hint of bitterness. To chase them down, you can opt for two shooters of Bloody Mary ($5), but we found this a little too thick — almost ketchup-like — for our tastes. A better chaser can be found in the Kilo Ceviche ($22), a juicy toss-up of fresh tuna loin, seabass and red prawn, along with cured tomatoes and Spanish purple onions.

We aren’t typically fans of steak tartare, but even we have to admit that the Classic Steak Tartare on Confit Potato ($22) is superbly done. Made from well-marbled Australian wagyu cube roll, the tartare packs a spicy bite thanks to a dressing of Dijon mustard, wholegrain mustard and tabasco. It comes heaped atop slabs of crisp, deep-fried confit potato that offer just the right textural contrast.

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Less impressive, however, are the small and rather rubbery White Clams in White Wine & Garlic ($22) — though the broth is tasty enough to mop up with hunks of toast.

Regulars at Kilo Kitchen will be glad to see the Signature Kilo Squid Ink Rice with Crispy Calamari ($26) back on the menu. This indulgent dish is a crowd-favourite for good reason — think rice marinated overnight with soy sauce and fish sauce, stir-fried with onion-infused squid ink sauce, then served with an onsen egg and aioli sauce. Mix them all together and you’ll get a silky, garlicky flavour bomb that reminds us of a less smoky paella.

The menu goes big on prime cuts of steak, each simply seasoned and given a sear in their charcoal-fired grill. Our USDA Prime Rib Eye ($68) arrives beautifully marbled and fork-tender, alongside some seriously massive potato wedges and chimichurri sauce.

To pair, we’re recommended a glass of Château Combel-la-Serre Cahors 2017 ($16/glass, $75/bottle) — this easy-drinking Malbec stands up to the steak nicely, with its blackberry notes and a touch of acidity.

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Speaking of tipples, you’ll find a range of cocktail classics to whet your thirst too. For a fruity, low-ABV refresher, the Rhubarb Gin Fizz ($16) fits the bill with Bombay Sapphire Gin, Aperol and soda. Meanwhile, the Kilo’s Negroni ($16) is a floral blend of Hendrick’s Gin, Aperol and fino sherry that sounds potent but turns out less spirit-forward than we’d like.

On the whole, it’s an eclectic menu with hits and misses — but if there’s one spot you can count on for buzzy vibes and warm hospitality, Kilo is it. For a sweet ending, we opt for the Citrus Limon Tart with Cloud Meringue ($14), sweetened with a sugary crust and fluffy meringue.

Kilo Singapore is located at 97 Duxton Rd, Singapore 089541, p +65 9625 0279. Open Tuesday-Friday 12pm–2.30pm & 4.30pm–10.30pm, Saturday 11.30am–10.30pm, Sunday 11.30am–5pm. Closed on Mondays.

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This article was first published in City Nomads.