Restaurant review: Osteria BBR by Alain Ducasse returns with a whiff of coastal Italy at Raffles Hotel

After a long string of lockdowns, what was once BBR by Alain Ducasse has emerged refreshed from its hiatus. Set in Raffles Hotel Singapore, Osteria BBR remains the brainchild of this legendary French chef, but the spotlight has shifted from broadly Mediterranean fare to a focus on the Italian Riviera.

This new chapter serves up all the breezy warmth of coastal Italy – fresh seafood , homemade pastas, and rustic classics taken up a notch.

Housed in the hotel’s iconic Bar & Billiard Room, the airy space is little changed. There’s the behemoth open kitchen with its shimmering sea blues and gleaming bronze, where newly appointed Chef de Cuisine Francesco Soletti presides.

Tomato-red couches set off a breezy palette of whites, and adding to the laidback vibes, servers run about clad in suits and white sneakers.

If you’re heading down for dinner, get there early to ring in aperitivo  as the Italians do. Between 3pm to 8pm daily, you can snag classic Italian cocktails like the Aperol Sour from $16++, along with selected wines by the glass for $12++.

Or simply crack open a bottle from their extensive list of Italian and French wines – what more fitting pick than the Champagne Lanson Selection Alain Ducasse Brut, a blend created exclusively for Alain Ducasse by House Lanson?

This citrusy, honeyed champagne is a lively opener for fresh catch from the antipasti selection. We kick things off light with the Crudo di Orata Marinato ($32). The firm, clean slices of marinated sea bream come harmoniously garnished with Amalfi lemon, crunchy sea asparagus, and just a sprinkle of red pepper flakes.

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Another refreshing starter, the Burrata Pugliese ($29) comes fresh and drizzled with basil-infused extra virgin olive oil, though it’s outshone by its companion: a ‘tart’ layered with plump cherry tomatoes, each more tangy and juicy than the next.

By now, you might have noticed the princely price tags on the antipasti, and this reaches new heights with the Tartar di Gambero Rosso di Mazara del Vello ($68).

This prawn tartare stars prized red prawns from Mazara del Vallo, known for their exquisite sweetness and silky flesh. Served in a golden pool of rockfish jelly and topped with a generous glob of Kristal caviar, it’s an opulent affair for sure – we polish off every last scrap.

For a taste of the turf, opt for the Carpaccio di Manzo ($32). These feather-thin circlets of John Stone 28-day dry-aged beef carpaccio positively melt in the mouth, along with a medley of pistachio cream, buffalo ricotta, and cheese crisps. Pair it with a glass of Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2018 – an Italian red from Piedmont that matches the meat with subtle cherry flavours and a dry finish.

The pasta selection is short but punchy, with elegant creations like the Eliche di Gragnano ($45). Eliche is a spiral-shaped pasta from the renowned town of Gragnano – think fusilli, but larger – and Osteria BBR does it perfectly al dente and tossed with Maine lobster chunks.

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Those oversized spirals mop up the rich lobster broth and nutty roasted eggplant nicely, brightened by just a spritz of citrus. For something meatier, the Mezzi Pacchieri alla Guancia di Manzo ($38) features fork-tender Barolo-braised beef cheek.

‘Crazy water’ seabass might sound hair-raising, but the Spigola all’Acqua Pazza ($78) is worth going crazy for. ‘Crazy water’ refers to a traditional water-based broth made with cherry tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, herbs like fennel and parsley, and more; here, it’s used to cook seabass and clams to succulence.

Don’t be put off by the bristling scales atop the fillet either – oil is poured over the scales to puff them up in an intimidating but surprisingly crisp fashion.

If you like your dessert boozy, you couldn’t do better than the Baba al Limoncello ($18). This limoncello-soaked spin on the more familiar rum baba involves sponge cakes doused – almost drenched, really – in limoncello, and served with whipped cream.

It’s simple, yet spectacular. Top up on booze with a glass of Mas Amiel Maury Vintage 2016 ($20/glass) – made with black Grenache, this Maury dessert wine is jammy with red fruit and a delicate sweetness.

Osteria BBR by Alain Ducasse is located at Raffles Hotel Singapore, 1 Beach Rd, Singapore 189673, p. +65 6412 1816. Open Thurs-Mon 12pm–2.30pm & 6pm–9.45pm. Closed Tues & Wed.

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This article was first published in City Nomads.