Restaurant review: Thirty Six Brewlab and Smokehouse brings food and brews crafted from the heart

Conceptualised by local craft beer brand Lion Brewery Co, Thirty Six Brewlab and Smokehouse is an inviting micro-brewery and restaurant in the Club Street neighbourhood.

The airy 120-seater venue is housed within a restored conservation building, which was once poignantly named Tong Sum Lao (通心楼), or “building that runs through the heart” – so named because it straddled three streets.

On a mission to laud craftsmanship in food, craft beer, music, and art, “heart” and craft are meaningfully considered at this charming establishment. Expect dedicated spaces for various groups and purposes – think intimate sections fitted with plush leather couches, a hedge-lined outdoor beer garden, and tall stools at the bar.

The 500-litre microbrewery on-site is helmed by head brewer and ex-IT professional Greg Brown who forged a 23-strong brew list based on rigorous research and experimentation. Expect familiar craft beers from Lion Brewery Co, including the brand’s popular Straits Pale Ale ($14 ), a well-balanced brew with notes of lychee and citrus fruits.

Greg’s fun personality shines through in playful brews such as Violet No-Regard ($15), a juicy purple ale cheekily named after a character in Roald Dahl’s Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory that gets its hue from local butterfly-pea flowers.

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Other beer highlights include the Raspberry Beer-et ($14), a refreshingly tart Berliner Weisse bursting with raspberry flavours, and the Anzac Biscuit Ale ($14). A hat tip to the popular biscuit from Greg’s hometown, the sweet ale boasts a golden syrup-laced coconut aroma and an oaty biscuit finish.

Greg also offers imported beers in three rare cask ale taps at the bar. Traditionally drank in English pubs, cask ale conditioned beers are unpasteurised beer that contains live yeast which is left to naturally ferment in the cask, allowing beers to develop a richer and creamier mouthfeel.

Led by Executive Chef Kwek Xiu Rong, Thirty Six Brewlab offers an equally thoughtful food menu of classic bar grub and flavourful smokehouse recipes to complement the beers.

Start with a few wonderfully executed sharing plates, like the homemade Beef Empanadas ($12) with lard-enhanced pastry shells.

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Inspired by an authentic recipe offered by a Filipino staff, the slow-cooked Lechon Pork Belly ($14) features well-marinated, juicy meat blanketed by a crispy fat layer.

Gastropub staple Scotch Egg ($10) tempts with a gooey soft-boiled middle and is elevated with a crisp outer shell of nduja, sausage, and Impossible meat.

Mains are redolent of the culinary team’s focus and technical expertise on open-flame grilling. The addictive sambal marinated Pork Belly Satay ($16), served with a tangy homemade achar salad demands seconds.

No shortcuts were used for preparing finger-licking-good Sticky BBQ Pork Ribs (from $28 for half rack). Seasoned Spanish baby pork ribs are first sous vide for 10 hours before being grilled and glazed with a kicap manis infused sauce on an open flame.

A surprise standout is the unassuming Fish and Chips ($25), where the beer-battered catch of the day is served with a homemade trio of twice-cooked fries, mushy peas, and tartar sauce.

It’s worth leaving some stomach space for one of the five pizza options that are prepped with naturally leavened, 24-hour fermented house-made dough. The Prosciutto di Parma and Burrata Pizza ($25) is a deeply satisfying pick topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, generous slices of 18-month aged prosciutto, and fresh burrata.

Round up the meal with a slice of Burnt Cheesecake ($13), paired with raspberries and housemade coconut meringue. Infused with fresh pandan juice that’s painstakingly extracted in-house, each bite is a satisfying combination of a slightly caramelized top and a dreamy creaminess in its core.

Thirty Six Brewlab and Smokehouse is located at 36 Club St, Singapore 069469, p. +65 6239 0350. Open Mon-Fri 12pm-10.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-10.30pm.

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This article was first published in City Nomads.