Travel guide to Lagos: Explore Nigeria's traditions, fashion, artistry and cuisine through a local's eye

Boasting a rich tapestry of cultures, and stunning landscapes, Nigeria or often referred to as the "Giant of Africa", is much more than meets the eyes. In this guide, with the help of Ify Ubby, the founder and designer behind OliveAnkara fashion label, we explore the bustling streets of Lagos, the most populous city in Africa. From its thriving arts scene, bold fashion, and delectable cuisine, join Ify on a transformative African voyage that promises a captivating blend of tradition and modernity as she rediscovers her Nigerian heritage

A mosaic of cultures

Nigeria's rich and diverse culture is intricately woven from the tapestry of its numerous ethnic groups. Its cultural landscape is majorly defined by its three largest ethnic groups: The northern Hausas, the southwestern-dominant Yorubas, and the southeastern Igbos. In this global socio-cultural melting pot, it's not uncommon for families to proudly embrace multiple ethnicities.

Furthermore, Lagos has also undergone a transformative evolution, accommodating people from all of Nigeria's 200-plus ethnic groups who coexist harmoniously. Over the past 16 years, the city has stepped away from the organised chaos that once defined it, to become a more orderly urban landscape. The banning of motorcycle taxis in certain neighbourhoods and the adaptation of iconic yellow taxis to compete with Uber have contributed to a more civil and controlled transportation experience.

Festivities and rituals in nigeria

In Nigeria, celebrations of elderly individuals' birthdays hold immense cultural significance, fostering strong family and community bonds. Similarly, Ify's grandmother's 90th birthday drew family members from around the world, uniting them in a memorable celebration.

During such festivities in Lagos, customs and rituals around food and fashion play pivotal roles. One such ritual revolves around the revered act of breaking Kola nuts, a practice originating from the Igbo culture. This ritual, transcending boundaries of social status, gender, and religion, symbolises peace and acceptance, often performed by the eldest member of the gathering.

Discovering Lagos fashion 

Lagos is the fashion capital of Nigeria, where modern and traditional styles seamlessly blend. More than anything, Lagos' street style is unbridled and fearless. It's a reassuring reminder that thinking bigger and bolder with your fashion choices pays off.

Lagos style, I'd say, is very unapologetic," says Ify. "There's a blend of everything!" And yet, as she also points out, there is one thing that unifies everything under the sun here: excitement. "Everyone shows up and kills it," says Ify. "There's enthusiasm all around.

At celebrations, traditional African attire takes centre stage, with family members donning matching Aso Ebi (family cloth) outfits. Women also elegantly wore Gele (headwraps) to complement their traditional attire. The practice which originates from Yoruba culture, symbolises unity and fosters togetherness. 

It's beautiful when you're in uniform as a family… even friends… we'll distinguish ourselves from the rest." - Ify's Aunt Funke

An authentic Nigerian shopping experience

A trip to Lagos is incomplete without visiting the Lekki Market for a taste of authentic Nigerian shopping experience. From a wide range of traditional textiles, clothing, arts, jewellery, and souvenirs, you'll surely find some kind of distinctive memento to bring home from here.

African textile at Lekki Market 

Lekki Market is a treasure trove of traditional African fabrics, including Ankara, Aso Ebi, and Adire, among others. One skilled tailor that we highly recommend is Chukwukafo, who adeptly crafts custom clothing using various colourful textiles by harmoniously combining various prints and patterns.

Artisans and artistry at Lekki Market 

The market is also often acclaimed as the go-to destination for some of Nigeria's most imaginative and authentic handmade crafts, honed by decades of experience and generational teachings. Among its treasures, one can discover unique wooden sculptures and carvings, traditional and folk art pieces as well as raffia-made crafts. These pieces come in the shapes of intricate mats, baskets, hats, and more, woven from fibres carefully extracted from the leaves of the raffia palm.

Street food at Lekki Market 

Not to be missed here is the vibrant street food scene at Lekki Market that offers a taste of the country's rich culinary heritage. Some standouts that showcase the country's love for bold flavours are "Bole," roasted plantains, cooked to perfection on roadside charcoal grills, and "Agbado Yinyan," which pairs roasted corn with a purple African pear, known as "ube". The African pears are roasted over hot coals or soaked in boiling water, resembling the taste of avocado when cooked.

To continue your gastronomic journey, take advantage of Lagos' diverse cultural influences, blending Yoruba, Igbo, and Hausa culinary traditions. Key ingredients like palm oil, known for its earthy richness and red hue, feature prominently in dishes like Egusi soup and Banga soup. Whilst pounded yam, also known as Amala, plays a vital role in home-cooked meals and communal gatherings, with each ethnic group enjoying it in their unique way.

Discover the best of Nigerian art and artists

For arts and culture enthusiasts, The Nike Art Gallery stands as a must-visit destination. One of Nigeria's largest art galleries, it showcases a stunning array of traditional and contemporary African art, including vibrant paintings, sculptures, textiles, and crafts.

Visitors can explore and purchase artworks created by local artists, gaining insights into Nigeria's diverse artistic traditions. Founder, Nike Davies-Okundaye, a prominent Nigerian artist and textile designer known as "Mama Nike," is a noteworthy figure. She is known for empowering women by providing training and employment opportunities, which is particularly significant in a country like Nigeria where economic opportunities for women can be limited.

Whether you're a traveller seeking an adventure or a culture enthusiast, Lagos, Nigeria offers a profound blend of tradition and modernity. It is a place where history meets innovation, where customs and rituals thrive, and where every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered. As you immerse in your journey through the city guided by the insightful perspective of Ify Ubby, we hope you walk away with not just another destination on your travel bucket list, but an experience of a lifetime.

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This article was first published in City Nomads.