What's the difference between sensitive and sensitised skin?

We hate to be the bearer of bad news but the itch, dryness and flakiness you’re experiencing from having “sensitive skin” might actually be by-products of “sensitised skin”. While they may sound similar, the causes and treatments are very different.

This is why it’s so important to understand what you are working with so you can get to the root of the problem. 

Sensitive vs sensitised skin - what are the differences?

"Sensitive skin is a colloquial layperson's description of a form of dermatitis. Dermatitis in dermatology can be due to underlying genetic problems such as atopic dermatitis or eczema. It can also be due to external factors or contact dermatitis, which can be due to excessively drying contactants in your cleansers body washes, or it can be due to an allergy (allergic contact dermatitis) to certain ingredients present in these topical formulations," says Dermatologist and founder of TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Clinic Dr Teo Wan Lin. Symptoms of sensitive skin include redness, flaking and swelling.

While sensitive skin tends to be genetic, sensitised skin is usually a consequence of triggers in the environment. "Sensitised skin or reactive skin is still considered a form of sensitive, dry atopic skin. But in particular, reactive skin types, react to environmental stimuli. External stimuli triggers can be in the form of physical changes in temperature or even pressure on the skin from wearing tight elastic bands. It can also be due to contact with skincare that is not suitable," she added.

How to tell if you have sensitive or sensitised skin?

Trying to suss out whether you have sensitive or sensitised skin is hard especially since the symptoms can appear very similar. Moreover, both sensitive and sensitised skin point to a compromised skin barrier.

“The skin barrier is a protection against the external environment. When there is a problem with the skin barrier function, it causes the external allergens or perception in these changes in the environment to penetrate skin and this triggers the local immune reactions in skin,” Dr Teo says.

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Outside of seeking a professional opinion, the best way to determine whether you have sensitive or sensitised skin is to think about the symptoms you are experiencing.

Do certain environmental factors aggravate these symptoms? If so, then you may have a skin type that is considered reactive.

Steering clear of these external triggers can help reduce or even eliminate your symptoms.

Since skin sensitivity is tied to genetics and a “family history of asthma, allergic rhinitis “hay fever” or eczema”, those with sensitive skin have usually experienced these symptoms all throughout their life.

Caring for sensitive and sensitised skin

For anyone with sensitive or reactive skin types, Dr Teo advises that you do a patch test if you’re using a skincare product for the first time to prevent inflammation across your entire face. She recommends using the flexural area of your arm or under your chin.

When looking for the right products for your skin type, focus on “repairing the skin barrier with a gold standard moisturiser formulated with the skin’s natural lipid barrier in mind, with additional anti-inflammatory ingredients.”

Dr Teo also recommends opting for gentle cleansers such as “amino acid cleansers with a lower pH compared to Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) laden cleansers which have a higher pH. These can be made with medical grade honey which is a natural emulsifier and has innate humectant properties. You can also use an emulsion oil type cleanser, which is typically gentler on skin.”

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Additionally, Dr Teo also warns against sun-sensitising acids such as AHA and BHA that may irritate and sensitise skin.

“I would also caution against using degreasing or astringent formulas. They can cause reactive seborrhea which leads skin to overcompensate by producing more oil. I don’t think that it’s a must for everyone to get started on retinols or retinoids (to fight signs of ageing). If you have sensitive skin, that’s one thing you should completely avoid in your skincare”.

Strengthening your skin barrier can also help with redness and sensitivity, according to Dr Teo. “I think it’s important for those who already have a history of dry or sensitive skin to choose a good moisturiser with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid, that is four to five times more effective in terms of its water-holding properties,” Dr Teo says.

If your symptoms are persistent (beyond three to four days) and doesn’t get better with an over-the-counter cortisone, it is advisable to seek medical attention from an accredited dermatologist.

This article was first published in Her World Online.