Ms Maria & Mr Singh review: Get a taste of Michelin-starred chef Gaggan's signature dishes from $18

To know someone is to eat their food, and there is no mistaking the distinctive playful flavours of Michelin-starred chef Gaggan Anand.

Having introduced himself to Singaporean diners with his Mandala Club pop-up, Gaggan returns with the first overseas outpost of his Indian-Mexican restaurant Ms Maria & Mr Singh.

The rock n' roll-inspired chef, in partnership with local hospitality group The Proper Concepts Collective, aims to deliver his signature fine-dining flavours but at affordable prices. After all, it costs a whopping 12,000THB (S$447) for a night at his celebrated Gaggan Anand Restaurant in Bangkok.

And Gaggan certainly delivers his promise in his typical rock-star manner.

From the moment you walk into the neon-lit taqueria, it feels like a concert experience. There is loud rock music greeting you as you enter the shophouse unit, and there is a general chill vibes as opposed to the stiff formality of fine dining.

And like any concert, it is important to grab people's attention from the get-go with a strong opener.

For starters, the must-order dish is no doubt Papdi Chaat ($18). Featuring Gaggan's signature "Yogurt Explosion", the dish is a play on a traditional Indian street snack. This one-bite appetiser, consisting of a spherified yogurt resting on a deep-fried puri (puffy Indian bread) and garnished with sev (fried noodles bits) and pomegranate seeds, is an unami bomb of sweet and savoury not to be missed.

As for the Cold Curry Ceviche ($20), Gaggan gets a little experimental by mixing things up. Going against the grain, the Indian chef reworks his classic Cold Curry Scallops dish in which Hokkaido scallops are given the Mexican treatment with the addition of Leche de Tigre (citrus-based, spicy marinade), corn salsa and guachutney.

Moving on to mains, this is where Gaggan ups the stakes and flavours of his Indian-Mexican experience.

Showcasing one of his greatest hits, Gaggan's Crab Curry ($32) can be found on the menu. A favourite since 2016, the fragrant crab meat is first stir-fried with pepper and curry leaves in this South Indian curry creation. The result, sweet chunks of crab meat swimming in a creamy yet slightly tangy delight!

But the real hit of the show is a wholly new creation – Patrani Fish Tamal ($30). Derived from his classic Fish Paturi dish, Gaggan's audacious attempt to bridge Indian and Mexican cooking sees him roast a barramundi fillet wrapped in a banana leaf with patrani masala. The dish is a surprising mix of smokey, earthen flavours that is so addictive that you just can't stop.

But like any good Indian or Mexican meal, it would be amiss not to have some carbs to complete the experience. While most will be tempted by the Truffle Quesadilla ($28), the better option in our opinion goes to the Morel Mushroom Biryani ($28).

The morel mushrooms are surprisingly plump and so flavour-filled, and combine that with the biryani spices, it hits all the right notes to make the truffle quesadilla seemed rather one-note despite the generous portion of black truffle paste and honey. Plus, the mushroom biryani complements the other mains such as the crab curry without overpowering them, making it our pick of the lot.

Having showcased a mixture of greatest hits and new creations throughout his menu set-list, Gaggan continues the pattern in his desserts selection.

ALSO READ: Celebrity chef Gaggan Anand on the Michelin Guide: 'A French guy judging Indian food is racist'

Presenting an original in the form of Avocado Falooda ($16), the Bangkok-based chef reimagines the classic Indian cold dessert with noodles. Packed with avocado mousse, coconut jelly, lemon foam and vanilla ice cream, it is not just a flavour, but also a textural delight.

But if you are one for the classics, then the Mango Yuzu Snowball ($24) will surely be your pick. As seen on MasterChef Singapore, this Gaggan specialty makes use of alphonso mango, yuzu and white chocolate flash-frozen with liquid nitrogen. It is the fitting light and sweet end to such an explosive and dynamic meal that will leave you wanting more. Just like any good concert experience would.

Address: 43 Craig Road, Singapore 089691

Opening hours: Friday – Sunday, 12pm – 3pm, Wednesday – Sunday, 6pm – 10.30pm 

No part of  this article can be reproduced without permission from AsiaOne.

timothywee@asiaone.com