Depending on whom you ask, nian gao was first made to fend off a monster named Nian, to shut the Kitchen God up, or when citizens of the Wu kingdom found themselves under siege and without food.
Whichever story you choose to go with, there's one thing we can all agree on about this Lunar New Year staple: it's impossible to resist. Especially when someone offers you a slice warm from the steamer or hot from the deep-fat fryer between slices of yam and encased in a crisp coat of batter.
Here then are a bunch of sticky-chewy nian gao to reach for this year.
Trehalose, Peach Gum, Rose and Coconut Milk Nian Gao at Shangri-La Singapore
Shangri-La Singapore has a host of nian gao in alluring flavours that make it difficult to choose. There’s the new Trehalose (a natural sweetener that’s said to help with regulating blood sugar) Peach Gum, Rose and Coconut Milk nian gao ($72.80), which makes a lovely gift as it comes with a dragon dance puppet show that you can put together with the family.
For something healthier, go for the Mung Bean and Dhal Nian Gao ($37.80). The Three Layers Nian Gao of purple sweet potato, pumpkin and brown sugar coconut milk ($37.80) is back, along with the Traditional Nian Gao with Coconut Milk and Brown Sugar ($32.80).
Golden Pandan Nian Gao Tarts with Gula Melaka and Grated Coconut from Wan Hao Chinese Restaurant
We did not regret scarfing down a whole box of these delicious Golden Nian Gao Tarts with Gula Melaka and Grated Coconut ($35 for a box of eight). These tiny tarts were chewy, buttery and just too damn easy to eat. The cookie-like crust is filled with chewy green nian gao fragrant with the scent of pandan. On top, a delicate grating of gula Melaka-infused coconut. Heaven.
Fortune Koi Fish Nian Gao from Min Jiang
These koi-shaped nian gao ($20 per pair) from Min Jiang are so cute, the otters might break into your home to steal them. Chew on these evergreen symbols of good fortune, this year filled with black glutinous rice. They make pretty desserts at the end of your reunion dinner.
Nian Gao Croissant Roll from Da Paolo Gastronomia
If you celebrate Chinese New Year, but still want to be ang moh pai, these Nian Gao Croissant Rolls ($5.90 each or $23.60 for a box of four) are just the ticket. Spiralled into croissant dough like soft toffee, the sweet-chewy nian gao make this a hearty breakfast or teatime snack.
Red Bean and Green Tea Nian Gao from Fullerton Singapore
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Nian gao lovers are spoiled for choice at Fullerton Singapore this year. The hotel’s popular Yam Paste Nian Gao Tarts ($42 for a box of nine) are back, comprising a layer each of nian gao and orh ni in crisp buttery pastry shells. Alternatively, try the brightly hued Red Bean and Green Tea Nian Gao ($38) or the delicately flavoured Harmony Koi Fish Osmanthus Nian Gao ($46).
Prosperous Reunion Happiness Trio-Layer Nian Gao from Peach Blossoms
That gleaming layer of black glutinous rice at the base of Peach Blossoms’ Prosperous Reunion Happiness Trio-Layer Nian Gao ($68) has been calling out to us for weeks!
This nian gao features a layer each of coconut milk, Japanese sweet potato and Okinawa brown sugar-sweetened glutinous rice. For something lighter, get the Water Chestnut Nian Gao ($68), or if you really, really like Japanese sweet potatoes, there’s the Harvest Japanese Sweet Potato Nian Gao ($38) to sate your cravings.
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This article was first published in Wonderwall.sg.