Tamba, a cultural and culinary journey into the heart of west Africa

We've often heard that everything and everyone around us carries a unique story. This sentiment is perfectly embodied by Tamba, Singapore's newest culinary gem.

Nestled in the heart of Duxton Road, this two-storey shophouse transcends the boundaries of a mere restaurant; it is a celebration of the vibrant spirit and rich flavours of West Africa. Tamba goes beyond the conventional dining experience, embracing the very essence of home.

Founded by Kurt Wagner, the visionary behind Kafe Utu, Tamba is a heartfelt reflection of his personal journey, drawing inspiration from his childhood in Liberia. The restaurant also serves as a poignant tribute to his late adopted brother, after whom it is named.

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Upon stepping into Tamba, we immediately found ourselves transported to an intimate oasis that narrates the restaurant's unique story.

From the rustic texture of the walls, reminiscent of wind-swept sand, to the wooden mural expertly crafted by renowned French sculptor Etienne Moyat, and the natural elegance of the clay vessels and artefacts, every detail has been carefully considered. Tamba is more than just a restaurant — it's a home that warmly welcomes guests with its cosy and intimate interior.

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Design aside, the menu at Tamba was undeniably a flawless complement to the establishment's overall ambience. We started off with the Tapalapa (S$25), a homemade West African bread that boasted a fresh and crisp exterior, while its interior remained warm and soft. Impeccably paired with their creamy homemade goat's milk ricotta, smoked honey, and smoked bacon butter, this starter effortlessly set the tone for our entire evening.

Moving on, the Pepper Soup (S$35) delivered a delightful kick with its habanero base, promising to awaken the senses with its fiery essence. Generously laden with seasonal seafood — in our case, succulent lobster — and tender beef offal, this hearty soup is undoubtedly a dish we'd crave for on a chilly day; not only warming the body but also soothing the soul.

As we proceeded to the main course, the Smoked Meats/Seafoods/Vegetables — which accommodates various dietary preferences — showcased an ever-evolving array of grilled-to-perfection mains that are smoked with utmost skill, providing you with a unique experience where each visit promises something new and fresh; simply ask the waitstaff what's smoking for the day.

In our case, we were treated to a tantalising Angus bone-in ribeye cooked to a beautiful medium rare. The accompanying sides included mofongo, an Afro-Puerto Rican delicacy featuring plantains and meat, artfully arranged atop a hearty palava — a stew-like sauce composed of plantains, onions, garlic, lime, and chillies.

As a thoughtful touch, chilli flakes and salt were provided on the side, allowing us to tailor the seasoning to our individual preferences.

In true restaurant review fashion, we have to spotlight our favourite dish of the evening: the Jollof Rice (S$35++).

This West African rice dish achieves a perfect harmony between heartiness and spiciness, generously laden with succulent smoked pork belly. Accompanied by a side of tender sakura chicken, the end result was a beautifully balanced yet indulgent pleasure that left us yearning for more.

Ending things off on a sweet note, we were presented with two different desserts from their menu. The Shuku Shuku (S$18) showcased a cardamom coconut yogurt-like confection, evocative of the Indian variation of coconut candy.

This treat was artfully accompanied by a delightfully sticky-sweet chewy ginger and a refreshingly creamy coconut ice cream creating a harmonious balance of sweet flavours while maintaining a light and delicate presence on the palate.

The Cassava Flan (S$18), on the other hand, presented a delightful twist on the classic flan dessert we know and love. Departing from the smooth, custardy texture we're accustomed to, this iteration boasted a more textured and slightly fibrous consistency.

The flan was set atop a spiced dulce de leche, while a crunchy parmesan cashew tuile topped the flan, adding an extra dimension to the dessert's already impressive array of textures — a fitting conclusion to our dining experience.

We would be remiss not to mention their imaginative cocktail menu, helmed by award-winning bartender Joma Rivera, who serves as Tamba's General Manager. The menu harnesses the art of mixology to narrate a chapter of Tamba's story with each drink, employing flavors that contribute to the rich tapestry of West African culture.

Boasting a collection consisting of over 60 per cent of African spirits, with a cocktail menu split into two parts — the first one, 'Tamba's Cocktails', being inspired by Tamba's stories growing up, and the other named 'Friends of Tamba' highlighting drinks inspired by those linked with the restaurant.

For the drinks, we were presented with The Next Pele (S$30) from Tamba's Cocktails, which had a rather charming backstory. It was mentioned that Tamba was passionate about football growing up and would often tell his friends that he was "the next Pele" — a nod to his idol, the legendary Brazilian footballer, Edson Arantes do Nascimento.

This inventive riff on a Caipirinha featured tamarind cachaca, lime, and long pepper, garnished with a whimsical rice paper illustration of a football player. The result? A refreshing, citrusy drink with a delightful peppery finish.

While we didn't have the chance to sample more drinks, the menu showcased several other intriguing options that definitely piqued our interest for our next visit. The Dry Boney (S$30), a savoury yet light cocktail, highlights tomato vodka — distilled in-house using their own rotary evaporator — alongside spiced tomato water and dashes of tabasco and Worcestershire sauce.

Additionally, there's the bold and aptly named Smoker's Kiss (S$32), a mezcal-based cocktail featuring chartreuse, sweet vermouth, and saline, promising a complex and alluring flavour profile.

Tamba is located at 101 Duxton Road, Singapore 089964, p. +65 6513 5388. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-12am. Closed Sun-Mon. 

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This article was first published in City Nomads.