Each time Mr Ritesh Angural and his wife, Ms Nisha Hari Singh, both 38, drove their trusty 2002 Land Rover Defender across a land checkpoint and into a new country, their doe-eyed toddler Arisha would ask: “Will I see snow here?”
Four months and six countries into Mr Ritesh and Ms Nisha’s epic mission for their family of three to travel from Singapore to Norway by land, Arisha’s wish came true – on her fourth birthday, in June.
It started snowing in Ulaanbaatar for just one day of their 42-day stay in Mongolia.
“She was so stunned and did not know what to say,” said Ms Nisha of her daughter’s reaction. “I remember her just staring out of the window, watching the snow fall and go, ‘Mama... the grass is white.’ It was so, so special.”
Arisha later celebrated her birthday at a Mongolian abode with locals – who also gifted her a Mongolian deel (a traditional tunic) – they befriended while fixing their converted camper vehicle in the country.
Since February, the family has covered more than 32,000km across 17 countries, and experienced temperatures ranging from -4 deg C, in Cappadocia in Turkey, to 41 deg C, in Don Det, Laos. They document their travels on their Instagram page @sabbatical.living.
From their starting point in Singapore, they have meandered their way through countries such as Cambodia and Afghanistan, and were mesmerised by views of spectacular mountains in Central Asia. They will end their odyssey in North Cape in Norway, the northernmost point of mainland Europe.
While they were frequently awestruck by the views nature offers, what impressed Mr Ritesh and Ms Nisha the most were the hospitality and friendliness of the locals of the countries they traversed.
Mr Ritesh said he will never forget a Kazakh car mechanic named Rustam, who helped the family fix their camper in his garage for almost a week. Rustam even invited them to dinners with his family, dining on fish they caught and the vegetables they grew.
He later helped the Singaporeans find a tool they needed to repair the car, even after they had parted ways.
The mechanic went to Almaty airport to find if anyone could help to take it to Mr Ritesh and his family, who were in Tajikistan. A passenger agreed and the tool was eventually handed over in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan.
There, a local who was intrigued by their unique-looking vehicle, let them stay in his accommodation for free.
Earlier, in Kyrgyzstan, a chance meeting with two women near a lake led to shared tea in their camper and a meal at a local guest house. The women later took the family to a panoramic viewpoint in the mountains, where Arisha ran through fields of dandelions.
“I can’t remember when I have done something like this to strangers,” said Mr Ritesh. “These experiences in Central Asia taught us a lot about how we ought to be a lot more welcoming to guests back at home.”
Later in Iran, after their vehicle had to be towed due to engine problems, a family hosted them for four days, including cooking them every meal and taking them to a local bazaar.
“After experiencing this level of hospitality for nothing in return, we also couldn’t help feeling a bit of guilt as we have never once done such gestures of hospitality to travellers in Singapore.”
The couple had quit their jobs in Singapore to see the world.
When the Covid-19 pandemic struck in 2020 and Mr Ritesh’s start-up – which developed an app used to help people meet to play sports – hit a roadblock, the couple started reflecting on their life.
“We each came up with a list of five things we would regret if we do not achieve (them) in the next 10 years,” said Ms Nisha, who left her job as a user-experience (UX) designer. “Travelling the world was on both of our lists.”
With Arisha less than a year old back then, they eventually came up with a plan to fulfil their wish by travelling overland.
While it was not easy to give up their careers, even temporarily, and they had concerns about funding the trip, the couple said they would rather live without regrets.
“Our family and friends thought we were crazy,” said Mr Ritesh.
They also wanted to travel with Arisha as much as they could before she starts attending primary school in 2027.
Ms Nisha wanted the experience to help Arisha be curious and appreciate the world, and people from all walks of life.
“We hope she grows up remembering the times she spent with people from different countries, religions and cultures, and that this helps her be more compassionate with the people around her.”
After saving up for two years, they bought a Land Rover Defender in Malaysia in February 2023 and converted it into a motorhome. Painted green, they named it Durian as it was owned by a durian picker who used it to search for the fruit.
Besides building a toilet inside and furnishing Durian with beds and a refrigerator, the couple fitted it with solar panels, which can tap the sun’s energy for electricity. The showstopper has proven to be a conversation starter, and also attracts camera clicks from strangers.
Besides spending about $90,000 to buy the vehicle and fitting it out, the couple also set aside some $60,000 for the expenses on the road.
Their journey – which began on Feb 17 – was off to a bumpy start as two tyres went flat while the family was still in Malaysia, and Durian had to be towed.
But after getting back on track, they headed north and spent close to three months in South-east Asia.
They then headed to Central Asian countries such as China, Mongolia and Uzbekistan, where they met some friends and family along the way. They even bumped into Minister in the Prime Minister’s Office Indranee Rajah at a bazaar in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, in September.
But it was not all sunshine and rainbows.
One of the most challenging moments for the family was driving along the Pamir Highway – known as the second highest international highway in the world, at 4,655m – in late August.
During the journey, Durian faced a number of issues such as a broken drive shaft, jammed fuel pump, loose turbo hose, flat tyre and almost rolled over due to the bad road conditions. Ms Nisha and Arisha also suffered from altitude sickness and had to split with Mr Ritesh so they could get quickly to a hospital in lower altitude.
“This was a very emotional experience for us as we had never separated since we left Singapore and we were worried for each other on both sides,” said Mr Ritesh.
Thanks to help from family and friends, who were on the trip with them in Pamir Highway, the family of three reunited in Murghab, Tajikistan, where Arisha had injections and drips for feeling unwell.
Despite this, the couple said they felt that, overall, Arisha adapted to the challenges and changing terrain the best among them.
“She lives every day with joy and excitement and often sings and dances in restaurants and in random places, which opens us up to more interactions with locals,” said Mr Ritesh.
With about three more months until the end of their trip in March, the family of three will be visiting countries such as Serbia, Poland and Estonia.
Ms Nisha said she is already having mixed feelings as she feels sad about leaving behind the freedom of travelling on the open road, but is also looking forward to their next phase in life.
Recognising that the trip has made memories for the family and brought them closer together, she said: “We also hope this is also a catalyst for us to continue to balance adventure together with day to day living in our lives when we return home.”
No matter if the grass outside is green, or white.
This article was first published in The Straits Times. Permission required for reproduction.
