Spring arrives at the one-Michelin-star contemporary Italian restaurant, Braci, with the season’s colours, scents and flavours accompanied by Chef Matteo’s expression of memories and home.
Perched atop a heritage shophouse, this culinary haven takes you from the North of Italy and through the Padan Plain to the Alpine Lakes and the Dolomite Mountains in “A Journey through Embers” – their refreshed degustation menu.
Through the open kitchen concept, expect a showcase of light and heartwarming flavours inspired by Chef Matteo’s experiences and creativity in an omakase-style meal which features wood and charcoal cooking.
A trio of delicate snacks starts us off on the gastronomic exploration of Northern Italian food cultures. An open cannolo made of potato is filled with a countryside favourite, pork trotter salad, topped with oscietra caviar in the Ricchi e Poveri. The dish combines “noble and peasant” flavours, as its name suggests.
The dish Rosso su Rosso, meaning red on red, carries his memories of holidays along the Ligurian Coast. Showcasing Chef Matteo’s love for red raw prawns, he combines this sweet crustacean with crispy snow fungus and red capsicum sauce, Salsa Rossa.
A twist on the popular vitello tonnato dish comes in Tonno Vitellato—a tartlet featuring bluefin tuna tartare glazed with veal jus and enhanced with alyssum flower for a subtle horseradish touch. The symphony of textures and flavours was a delightful start to the meal.
Things start to get more creative with the traditional North Italian appetiser, Carpione. Here, preserved fried fish is immersed in a white wine vinegar and vegetable solution that gives it its refreshing, tangy flavour. Although the fish is cooked, it almost has a delicate sashimi-like texture.
The artistry continues with layers of cured kingfish, smoked eel, and black radish, arranged as a visually stunning rose. In the center, you’ll be surprised with a pool of carpione jelly, crafted from smoked eel broth and tangy Amalfi lemon. This masterpiece is adorned with shiso flower and drizzled with marigold oil, elevating both the presentation and the palate.
Inspired by the popular childhood game, Chef presents Nascondino, translating to ‘hide and seek’ next. In this whimsical dish a star lays underneath a luscious blanket of smooth white asparagus milk — the charcoal-grilled firefly squid and seasonal white asparagus.
The unexpected crunchiness of puffed quinoa added a delightful texture to the dish, while the bagna cauda, a traditional Piedmontese sauce, elevated this dish. The sauce crafted from a blend of smoked sardines, Cantabria anchovies, pink garlic, and cream bestowed a savoury and well-rounded taste to this playful dish.
The tantalising flavours of Agnello Pasquale bring the essence of Easter at Grandma’s home to the table. Chef’s artistry shines through as a succulent charcoal-grilled maimao lamb saddle takes centre stage, accompanied by a morel mushroom generously stuffed with pure dark chocolate.
The dish is finished at the table, where a rich jus, infused with lamb bones and a reduction of Giusti Vermouth (a 100 year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena) is poured in. This artisanal vermouth crafted from a selection of fine wines and botanicals, including healing herbs and spices, adds a herbaceous and floral flavour and depth to the dish.
A selection of petit fours grace the table for dessert at Braci, including the iconic Italian dessert Tiramisu, served with a creative twist. The Tiramisu Tartlet features espresso ganache and marsala jelly, crowned with a charcoal-burned mascarpone marshmallow that blends tradition and innovation in a single bite.
[[nid:613961]]
However, the meal is incomplete according to Chef Matteo, whose father always says, “Your mouth is never tired until you taste a cow” (an Italian saying). Transforming this memory into the Tuklin de Grana, Chef Matteo pays homage to his father with this sweet and savoury delight.
Combining 12 months Grana Padano with white chocolate, this treat is accompanied by a swirl of the Braci-exclusive “Riserve” balsamic vinegar from Giusti, aged for over 100 years.
Chef Matteo shares a tradition rooted in Italian culture, where families mark the arrival of a newborn by making balsamic vinegar. The vinegar cask is left to age and presented to the child when he gets married. This cherished gift holds profound value and is even a fitting gift for royalty. And so, with the “taste of cow” and the valued balsamic vinegar, the meal is complete.
To round off the experience, head one floor up to the rooftop bar and enjoy Braci’s curated wine list, alongside breathtaking views of Boat Quay along the Singapore River.
Braci is located at 52 Boat Quay, #05-01/ #06-01, Singapore 049841, p. +65 6866 1933. Open daily 12pm -2pm & 6pm-11pm. Five-course Signature Degustation is $208, Seven-course Signature Degustation is $258, available for both lunch and dinner.
This article was first published in City Nomads.