A quick look through the ingredient list of your anti-ageing serum or lotion, and you might notice the word “peptides’’.

Sometimes, it comes with prefixes like tri-, hexa- or tetra-, but don’t let that confuse you, because peptides, in any form, are essential active ingredients, particularly if you’re looking to keep skin looking youthful.

According to Dr Kong Yan Ling, dermatologist at DS Skin & Wellness Clinic, “Peptides are compounds made up of short chains of amino acids, and they are the building blocks of proteins, like collagen and elastin, that are important components of the skin.”

Paula Begoun, known as “The Cosmetics Cop” and founder of Paula’s Choice Skincare, states on her website that “proteins are the fundamental building blocks of skin.

Without peptides, skin doesn’t remain intact, and the result is loss of firmness, appearance of wrinkles, texture changes, and skin that doesn’t bounce back as it once did”.

Herein lies the problem: Proteins are often unfragmented, which means they can be too large to be absorbed by skin. Fortunately, here’s where peptides come in handy. “Peptides are smaller and hence more likely to penetrate deeper into the skin when applied topically,” says Dr Kong.

“Once absorbed, they act as messengers capable of performing certain functions, for example, sending signals to cells to produce important collagen, which can, in turn, improve the appearance of skin.”

Other benefits include reducing skin inflammation and improving the skin barrier for a healthier complexion.

“While different peptides may have their own unique benefits for the skin, nearly all work to improve moisture levels in skin, as well as having antioxidant and soothing, anti-redness benefits,” says Drunk Elephant founder, Tiffany Masterson.

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Here’s what you need to know about the peptides in your skincare

What to look for

Reading ingredient labels can be tricky if you don’t know what you’re looking for. “Look for words like ‘peptide’ or ‘palmitoyl’. Palmitoyl is a lipophilic derivative that is often incorporated with peptides as it stabilises the latter and enhances their absorption,” says Dr Kong.

The types of peptides

There are hundreds of different types of peptides available, each with a different benefit for the skin.

According to Dr Kong, there are four classes: signal peptides (carnosine, palmitoyl peptides and some hexapeptides) to stimulate the production of proteins like collagen and elastin, enzyme peptides (rice silk and soybean peptides) to decrease enzyme activity that causes skin to age, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (pentapeptide-3 and -18, acetyl hexapeptide-3 and tripeptide-3) to lessen wrinkles by inhibiting muscle contraction, and carrier peptides (copper tripeptide and manganese tripeptide-1) to transport essential trace elements for proper cellular function.

Boosting their efficacy

Just like humans, peptides don’t work as well alone. For best combinations, Dr Kong recommends pairing peptides with other active ingredients, like antioxidants, niacinamide (vitamin B3) and hyaluronic acid, that can help brighten and hydrate skin.

The only ingredient she says to steer clear of is alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) as they can reduce the efficacy of the peptides.

Enhance your skincare routine with these peptide-infused products

Moisturiser: Laneige Perfect Renew Youth Retinol Pro, $60

This anti-ageing cream combines the powers of pure retinol, French tripeptide and 5D hyaluronic acid to refine skin’s texture and plump it from within to reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles and even sagging. Available at Laneige stores and counters

Filorga Age-Purify Double Correction Fluid, $112

A anti-ageing moisturiser that protects against daily pollutants and keeps skin blemish- free.

It’s formulated with a tripeptide and glycopeptide to smooth and firm skin, as well as five acids and rourou seed extract to slough off dead skin cells and stave off breakouts. Available at the official Filorga store on Lazada.sg

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Two Halves Better Balance Nutrients Networking Water Cream, $75

A silicone-free moisturiser infused with ingredients like phytosphingosine, peptides, ceramides and vitamin E to strengthen skin barrier and lock in moisture for a smoother and healthier complexion.

Available at Twohalves- skincare.com and Novela stores at IMM, Singpost Centre, Northpoint and Yue Hwa

Serum: MT Metatron MT Stem Serum, $220

Enriched with the brand’s iconic DMAE active ingredient, stem cell culture extracts – apple fruit, argan tree and heart-leaf globe daisy – along with a HGF-like synthetic peptide, this helps to get skin smoother, firmer and brighter over time. Available at Isetan Scotts

Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurf Serum, $116

Power-packed with a blend of 11 peptides plus an exfoliating 10 per cent lactic acid, antioxidant-rich plant oils and vitamins, as well as skin-loving hydrators, this serum gently sloughs off dead skin cells to reveal a smooth, supple and glowing complexion.

Available at Sephora stores and Sephora.sg

Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum, from $110

Along with its signature anogeissus extract and hyaluronic acid, this new and improved serum now includes six peptides to keep skin youthful.

It fills in fine lines and wrinkles, lifts and firms skin, and refines its texture for a smoother and more radiant complexion. Available at Origins stores and counters, Sephora stores and Sephora.sg

Treatment: Est.Lab Vitalift A+ Intensive Youth Restoring Capsules, $89 (30 capsules per jar) 

Each capsule contains a cocktail of antioxidant- rich fullerene, a trio of anti-wrinkle and collagen-boosting peptides (hexapeptide-8, pentapeptide-3 and tripeptide-1) and moisturising oils to help improve skin’s health. Available at Estetica Beauty studios and Estlab.shop

I Woke Up Like This Boosting Face Up & Eye Patch, $58 (box of four sheets)

This lifting mask and eye patch set promises a V-shaped face and bright eyes with regular use. The secret? Acetyl hexapeptide-8, made from a protein found in Botox, as well as hyaluronic acid, birch spa and centella asiatica extract to hydrate and soothe. Available at Ksisters.sg

Chantecaille Gold Recovery Intense Concentrate P.M., $500

Infused with a blend of peptides (gold hexapeptide, hexapeptide amplified, refining lipopeptide and bionymph peptide stem cell extract), this potent booster promotes collagen and elastin production, helps with DNA repair, and renews skin for a smoother and more youthful-looking visage.

Available at Chantecaille counters.

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This article was first published in Her World Online.