Travel to Phnom Penh: Where to stay, what to do and eat in the capital of Cambodia

Just one and a half hours away by flight from Singapore is the Pearl of Asia, Phnom Penh. Moving past its military governance and French influence, the capital of Cambodia is shaping up to be a must-visit destination boasting a vibrant blend of history and modernity.

While it may not be home to a Unesco World Heritage Site like the Angkor Wat, it sits at the confluence of three prominent rivers, Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Tonle Bassac, all of which make up the Mekong River system, affectionately known as the Mother of Waters. With such significance, coupled with friendly locals, don't skip over the capital city on your next trip to Cambodia.

Whether planning an easy weekend getaway or seeking a deep dive into Cambodia's rich culture and heritage, here's what to see, do, and eat in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. 

How to get around?

Once you leave the airport, you will notice the swarm of motorcycles and tuk-tuks plying the streets. While these are the most common forms of transportation, taxis, car hires, and public buses are also viable options. Your Grab app works here, so whip out your phones and book a ride in a car, a tuk-tuk, or a remork (a larger version of a tuk-tuk).

Besides on-demand services, you can also rent a car or tuk-tuk for up to eight hours, paying approximately S$30 for a tuk-tuk and S$66 for a car. All prices are reflected in Cambodian Riel on the app.

Our journey from the airport to the city centre was mostly smooth sailing, with slow-moving traffic in some areas. Although the roads are wide, expect jams during peak hours when the roads are packed with thousands of motorcycles weaving through traffic.

While walking can be an excellent way to explore the city, it's worth noting that pavements are sometimes non-existent. You'll have to stay alert and enjoy the thrill of walking alongside the busy traffic. Unlike Singapore, there are fewer traffic lights, so pay extra attention when crossing the streets.

We found drivers responding to our hands-up signal; make sure to cross from a visible spot and walk swiftly and decisively. Motorbikes and tuk-tuks will do their best to swerve around you, so don't get startled and keep to your pace. 

Where to stay?

Rosewood Phnom Penh Mekong Suite. PHOTO: Rosewood Phnom Penh

For a well-deserved weekend getaway, it’s worth the splurge to put up at Rosewood Phnom Penh. Occupying the top 14 floors of Vattanac Capital Tower, one of the tallest buildings in the city, Rosewood Phnom Penh boasts panoramic views of the city and the legendary Mekong River.

And with its east-side facing, you'll even get one of the best sunrise views from the comfort of your room. The 175-room hotel embraces local culture within its sophisticated, residential-style rooms, which feature plush furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows, and intelligent controls.

A little detail we enjoyed was the books on the table; they are engaging books, not coffee table books, that you will actually read. As part of the evening wind-down service, the hotel's staff tidies the room and draws the curtains, creating a cosy atmosphere to sleep.

They'll even prepare a bottle of water — glass, not plastic — and leave little bedside treats. We can't decide which we loved better — waking up to sweeping views of the river or winding down to the twinkling city lights in the bathtub (with no worries of peeping toms!)

The centrally located hotel is just minutes away from the Royal Palace by tuk-tuk and is within walking distance of the Central Market and the riverside. Book the hotel’s chic remork for a city tour, or immerse yourself in local art at the art gallery on the 35th floor. 

Enhance your getaway with a dip in the hotel’s indoor lap pool or catch up on fitness at the gym (with a view). Better yet, head to Sense Spa for a relaxing blend of Khmer remedies and modern techniques. 

But if you are looking for funky hostel vibes, then the Mad Monkey Phnom Penh, located within the BKK1 district, is the place for you. Connect with fellow backpackers from all over the world at their Beer Garden or join one of their walking tours and pub crawls. 

What to do?

Visit cultural and historical sites

Wat Phnom is a historical site and Buddhist temple that gave Phnom Penh its name. Legend has it that Lady Penh discovered four statues of Buddha hidden in a tree trunk that was washed up to the front of her house. She built this temple (Wat in Khmer) on top of a hill (Phnom in Khmer) to honour the Buddhas.

As a Buddhist country, this carried so much significance that the city, named after Lady Penh, became the capital of the country. Explore the grandeur of the architecture, with its colourful story murals and intricately carved statues, and immerse in the history of Phnom Penh.

Other cultural sites include theRoyal Palace, which boasts a life-sized Buddha, and the National Museum of Cambodia, which houses the most extensive collection of Khmer cultural artefacts. And if you’re in the mood for some deep reflection, make a trip to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum to learn about the city’s tragic past.

Note: Ladies are required to cover their shoulders and legs when visiting the cultural attractions in Phnom Penh. T-shirts and sarongs are available for sale on-site.

Shop at the markets

A great way to go local is to visit the markets. The New Central Market, known to the locals as Phsar Thmei, is an Art Deco-inspired version of a traditional market. A dome sits at the centre, with the rest of the stalls organised into four areas.

Popular with both locals and tourists, you can buy everything from fresh seafood to handicrafts, from homeware to jewellery and watches. For more artisanal woodcraft and silk products, the Russian Market, Phsar Toul Tom Poung, is the place to go.

A favourite among the young locals is the Night Market, also known as Phsar Reatrey, for its wide variety of clothes, accessories and food stalls. Soak in the riverside vibes and enjoy live performances on the weekends. 

Go on an art tour

Go hunting for street art murals at Street 240. Weave through the laid-back bohemian streets filled with trendy shops, eateries, and bars.

Or book a tour that’ll take you to the lesser-known areas for underground street art. Rosewood Phnom Penh guests can contact the concierge for an intimate guided tour by emerging Cambodian street artists who’ll take you to the city’s most instagrammable street art locations and hidden gems. 

Explore the bars and nightlife

While the city may not be known for its bars (yet), its flourishing cocktail culture hints at a vibrant nightlife experience waiting to be discovered.

As day turns to night, scale to Sora Bar, situated on the 37th floor of Vattanac Capital Mall, for the best rooftop bar experience in Phnom Penh. Its cantilevered terrace overlooks the city, with a sweeping view of the Mekong River. Read our review of Sora Bar here.

With rows and rows of bars and eateries, Bassac Street is the city’s hotspot for after-dark bar hopping. Kick back at a dive bar or soak in the energy at live entertainment bars. As you traverse the alleys, keep your eyes peeled for quirky little bars like the Victorian-styled White Rabbit for its bespoke cocktails. 

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For a taste of locally distilled spirits, visit the Samai Distillery on Thursdays as the distillery transforms into a bar serving Samai rum-based cocktails.

Local flavours come into play with the Samai Kampot Pepper Rum; try it in the Pepper-Vanilla Old Fashioned or the Basil Beauty. Gin lovers will love the smoothness of Mawsim Gin, infused with local fruits, herbs and spices like peppercorns, cardamom, and more. Enjoy gin-based cocktails at Mawsim Distillery and Bar by reservation only. 

What to eat?

One of the best ways to enjoy Khmer cuisine is to feast on street food. Look for the cluster of stalls in the markets or along the riverside and slurp up some Nom banh chok or Khmer noodles. It might remind you of Vietnamese Pho, except it comes in a fish-based gravy made with lemongrass, kaffir lime, and turmeric root.

The typical breakfast fare, Bai sach chrouk, is a grilled pork and rice dish that you can easily find anywhere. The most popular Cambodian dish, Fish Amok, which looks similar to otak, is a fish mousse made with coconut milk and Khmer curry wrapped in a banana leaf. 

For accessible Khmer flavours, Eleven One Kitchen — a 99 per cent plastic-free restaurant — offers a menu of Cambodian dishes with Western techniques. Besides the Fish Amok Burger (US$6.25 (S$8.50)), don’t miss the Stir-fried Beef Curry (USD$5.50) and Kampot Shrimp and Crispy Noodle Salad (US$5.75).

For authentic home-cooked dishes, make your way to Banteay Srey for Morning Glory Stir Fried With Beef And Red Ants (US$4) and crowd-favourite Grilled Chicken with Cashew Nuts (US$6.75).

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Splurge at Brasserie Louis at Rosewood Phnom Penh for French and Cambodian flavours. Choose from their extensive a la carte menu or indulge in a bottomless Sunday Brunch (US$70) with fresh seafood, live pastry stations, and classic French and Cambodian favourites prepared à-la-minute.

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This article was first published in City Nomads.