What's the real deal with microneedling patches? We find out

Dubbed the next best alternative to Botox, microneedling patches have been said to work on fine lines, wrinkles, stubborn acne and even pigmentation spots.

The inspiration? The microneedling treatments you get at the doctor’s office. According to Dr Coni Liu, dermatologist at DS Skin & Wellness Clinic, microneedling involves using very fine short needles to penetrate skin, to enhance the absorption of skincare products and stimulate collagen production.

How do they work?

“The skin is a barrier that keeps external elements out to protect itself against irritation. This also means when a skincare product is applied, only a percentage of that product is actually absorbed,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, founder of skincare brand 111Skin.

And that’s exactly what makes microneedling patches so ingenious. Similar to the microneedling treatments you get in the doctor’s office, these patches are able to provide a more efficient delivery system for the active ingredients in your skincare products, compared to regular topical application.

Think of them as a hybrid of sheet masks and DIY microneedling tools. Each patch contains very tiny and fine “needles” or micro-darts that are packed with high concentrations of active ingredients. When applied to skin, it creates tiny openings or micro-channels that allow the ingredients to penetrate deeper into skin.

Plus, it promotes “blood circulation, collagen production and skin metabolism… towards tighter, brighter and firmer skin”, according to Dr Alexandrides.

Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the microneedling patch is its water-soluble “needles” that dissolve into skin to release the active ingredients and deliver them to the targeted areas of concern.

While these patches come with many benefits, Dr Liu cautions against unrealistic expectations since many of them have shorter needle depths. “For microneedling to work and reach the dermis, it needs to be at a depth of 0.5 to 1mm,” she says.

While these patches can’t rival a trip to the derm, experts agree that they still offer better results than regular topical skincare application. For best results, Dr Liu recommends using them no more than once a week.

What do they contain?

The main ingredient in a microneedling patch is hyaluronic acid, a hydrator that soothes skin and combats signs of ageing. While it holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, the molecular weight means it’s often too large to be fully absorbed into skin when applied topically.

By diffusing the hyaluronic acid deeper into skin via the “micro- channels” in microneedling patches, it is better able to attract and retain moisture to keep skin well hydrated, and plump fine lines and wrinkles.

Does it hurt?

First off, these aren’t the big pointy needles you’re picturing. There might be slight discomfort – think teeny pinpricks – but it subsides quickly. After a few minutes, you probably won’t even remember that the patches are there.

A patch for every skin concern

For fine lines and pigmentation: 111Skin Meso Infusion Overnight Micro Mask, $205 for box of four masks

These patches are enriched with hydrating hyaluronic acid and line-plumping vitamin C to target expression lines. For best results, use it once a week for at least 90 minutes. Available at Metro stores and Lazmall Prestige on Lazada.sg

For persistent acne: Snow2+ Multi-Ampoule Green Patch, $29.50 for box of four patches, one ampoule and 16 hydrocolloid bands

A complete anti-acne kit to target stubborn breakouts. The ampoule contains soothing centella asiatica, while the patch is made with antioxidant-rich magnesium to tackle troubled skin.

With microneedles that are finer than a strand of hair, application is practically painless. Available exclusively at Beautycircus.co

For saggy skin: Lavien Hyalpeptox Micro Patch – Upgraded, $97 for box of four pairs

This improved version is enriched with five active ingredients – hyaluronic acid, peptide solution, collagen, madecassoside and trehalose. Each kit also comes with an additional patch for frown lines between the brows. Available exclusively at Ksisters.sg

For stubborn lines and wrinkles: Swiss Clinic Hyaluronic Microneedle Patches, $72 for box of four pairs

Each patch contains 148 microstructures that are infused with 100 per cent hyaluronic acid to revitalise skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Available exclusively at Currentbody.sg

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For pigmentation spots: Needly Skincare Anti-spot Deep Brightening, $55.89 for pack of 12 patches

Infused with niacinamide and arbutin, these patches are great for brightening dark spots caused by blemishes. The patented micro- darts are designed to not only ensure effective delivery of active ingredients, but also minimise skin irritation and enhance comfort.

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For best results, leave it on overnight. Available exclusively at Needly Skincare official stores on Lazada. sg and Shopee.sg

For early-stage cystic acne: Zitsticka Killa Spot Clarifying Patch Kit, US$37.57 (S$51) for box of eight patches and eight cleansing wipes

Using its signature micro-dart technology, it delivers a potent blend of hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, peptides and niacinamide to target deep, early-stage pimples. Each kit also comes with exfoliating wipes that are infused with salicylic acid, tea tree oil and vitamin E. Available exclusively at Net-a-porter.com

This article was first published in Her World Online.